Day 17 - July 23

Set off to mainly sunny skies again today - 2 days in a row - we're breaking records! We walked down very quiet roads toward Clogher and then set north on a quiet lane to Dunanoir Fort in Smerwick Harbour. This was an ancient promontory fort which may have been defended as early as 500 BC. It's known in Irish history for one of the bloodiest battles when Spanish,  Italian and Irish forces were all working together to build up the Fort in 1580. Before they could finish though, English government forces led by Lord Grey began a three day siege which ended with 600 men, women and children being massacred by the government forces. At least the site is remembered and a plaque tells the history of what happened. 

We walked on Smerwick Beach for a few kilometres. When we started on the beach, an older Irish couple came to speak to us about our travels and offer advice. When I asked why the beach wasn't busy on a sunny, Sunday morning (maybe 10 people over several kms), the woman said that this was busy!!

The Three Sisters  - view near Feohanagh

On toward other beaches, sand and surf. A picnic on the beach and then on to the little town of Ballydavid. From there we walked along the cliff top to Gorman's Hilltop Guesthouse, where we took in the panoramic 360 degree views of the coast and Mount Brandon. 

The views all along the way today were amazing. From down at sea level and the endless stretches of beaches to the tops of craggy cliffs and crashing surf, there was lots to see and smell. The weather helped with the walk today as I was struggling with a sore leg and ankle. I had to pole the whole way but the sun and sky were very motivating. 

We had an amazing dinner at Gorman's Hilltop Guesthouse where we are staying.  We had a view of the ocean and the entire dining room to ourselves.  Finished the evening watching the sun set over the Atlantic - a first for us!

Km hiked 16

Day 16 - July 22

After all our things finished drying out overnight, we were ready to head off by 9:00. We found the dolphin, Fungie, who is the town's ambassador. I also found a lovely woolen shop I might have to make my way back to :).  
We followed back lanes for a while before arriving in Ventry. We found a lovely cafe that served scones so we ate those with a coffee / hot chocolate, before carrying on and heading down to the beach. The weather was lovely on the Carhoo beach and included a horse and rider in the water for a full effect. 

Headed back up into the hills following the path through sheep and cattle fields. 



We marvelled at many of the archeological ruins of Clochains. 

No one really knows who built them and used them but they are of ancient Celtic tradition and pre-date to 700 AD. There were also some beehive huts to be seen but most of these have been rebuilt from the 18th century although they date much further back than that. 




We followed Slea Head Drive and went to explore the remains of a Lios (or Rath / Ringfort). This was a group of circular dwellings possibly dating back from the Iron Age to early Christian times. It was said these were "fairy forts" as there are many tales involving fairies and the farmers interacting with them. 

We climbed higher into the shoulder of Eagle Mountain and missed a turn which led us up the slopes toward the summit.  Thankfully we realized our mistake about 1/3 of the way up, and made our way back down to the path. We carried on to Slea Head (Point) which overlooks the Blasket Islands. Incredible views, craggy rocks and sunny skies! 




We were exhausted by the time we reached Dunquin, as expected and called the local taxi to pick us up and take us to Ballyferriter (another 7 km more away). 




We cleaned up and walked across the street to Tigh Ui Chathain. We enjoyed traditional pub food along with cider and Smithwicks ale. Then we added on Irish coffees and Baileys liquor. This was so we could sit back and enjoy the live local entertainment. Wonderful end to the day!

Hiked 24 km

Day 15 - July 21

The first day of our 4-day Dingle Way walk was nothing to write home about, but we'll try.  One word ... RAIN ... and lots of it.  

The Dingle Way complete is broken up into 8 stages (legs) and is typically done over 8-10 days .  Due to our time limitations, we are starting on stage 3 in Annascaul and will complete 4, 5 and 6 ending next Monday in Cloghane on the north side of the Dingle Peninsula.

Today's stage took us down tiny back roads, rocky paths and grazing pastures.  At times, the rain was so heavy we took shelter next to a hedge wall or farm buildings. Speaking of farm buildings, the countryside is littered with old stone, ruin-like buildings  ... guessing 100-150 years old. Most nothing remains but the gable ends in stone and sides - no roof.  Others have had obvious renovations throughout the years, with rusted corrugated roofs and some remnants of timber with slate.

We met several other hikers along the way today - a young German couple who started the leg before ours yesterday in the rain as well, so this was their second wet day.  Reminders of our honeymoon!   Also met 2 couples from Holland and another couple who were breaking for lunch - didn't chat much with them.

Will let the pictures tell the rest of the story. 

Km hiked = 23.7

Day 14 - July 20

Pick up at 5:30 for the airport. Grey skies again. Flight left at 8:00 and we were in Ireland by 9:05. Actually saw the Isle of Man as we were getting close to Ireland. Found the car rental place and picked up our car. Lots of heavy rain off and on as we made our way to Limerick. 

We spent a little time there before carrying on to Listowel. We toured the castle that dates back over 600 years. Even the horsehair and pigs blood plaster was still the original! Lots of toilets in this castle - 4! As going to the bathroom was when you were considered the most vulnerable and therefore easily killed, the most trusted person was the master of the toilet. He was responsible for protecting you and doing a few other things for you while you were in the bathroom, if you know what I mean. 

Near the castle was St Johns Protestant Church and st Mary's Catholic Church. We were told that everyone gets along now, religion wise.











Drove on to Annascaul where we are now. 
Dinner was at a local pub called Patcheen’s. 

This little town’s claim to fame is about Tom Crean (born here) who successfully went on 3 expeditions to the Antarctic. Each expedition was 3 years long -  the Discovery Expedition with Scott (1901-1904), the Terra Nova with Captain Scott (1910 -1913), and the final expedition was the Endurance with Shackelton (1914-1917).  Crean came back to to Annuscaul after being a successful explorer and became the proprietor of the South Pole Inn.

Headed back to our B & B to plan the next few days of hiking. 
Still raining. ☹

Day 13 - July 19

Pam and Bill called for us at 10 and we were off to Linlithgow to meet Jonathon and his children Esme, Olivia and Freddie at Linlithgow Palace. 

 





This was a fascinating ruin of a castle – the site of royal manors since the 12th century and one of the principal residences of the monarchs of Scotland in the 15th and 16th centuries. 
Claim to fame … the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots.  

The wind was very cold and was whistling through the open windows but that just added to the mystery of the whole palace. More info at https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/linlithgow-palace-p252271 and 
https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/linlithgow-palace/

The children love this place and often come here to explore. We went into the 11th century church next to the palace and explored the history there. 

We lunched in town at a lovely place and then went on to walk 2.3 miles around the Loch. We were offered wonderful views of the palace, Loch and swans. The kids ran and explored the whole time and the rain held off so we could all walk around and enjoy the views and conversations. 

Back to Jonathan and Sheena’s home for a lovely dinner. Bill took us to the train station and we hopped on for a 20 minute ride back to Edinburgh. A walk back to the B & B through a scotch mist and packed for an early pick up of 5:30 am.

Day 12 - July 18

Left B & B at 9 and started walking to Edinburgh castle. We joined up with the “royal mile” about halfway up,  taking in all the sites and sounds of Edinburgh. 

 

 Our visit to the Castle was extremely busy (no surprise) and difficult to see things or take photos. We rented recorded audio tours  in order to get some of the sorry of the castle – well worth it! 

 

The Royal Mile is literally a mile of straight road that was built along a ridge that led down from the main high point of the castle hill.  In the early days, the town would have grown down along this ridge from the castle and eventually grew our laterally from this main ridge.   Narrow "Closes" led from the main road between the houses down the sides of the ridge to other streets. 

After leaving the castle, we made our way down the Royal Mile into “The Hub” for lunch then on to meet Pam and Bill at Mercat Cross - the market gathering place in Edinburgh. Mercat Cross was a traditional place where people would gather to hear the royal proclamation made in London … three days later; as that is how long a horse would take to get from London. 

 

 

We took a tour of the underground vaults, several stories deep.  We learned these were the multi-level vaults of a bridge that stretched from the Old Town of Edinburgh (along the Royal Mile) and connect to the New Town built to the North and South sides of the valleys. Tenements were eventually built up around the sides of the bridge so the arches of the bridge provided the tunnels and rooms where people lived and worked in.  It was a desolate place where many would never see the light of day.

Left Pam and Bill and walked down to the lower end of the Royal Mile to visit Holyrood Palace – the Queens residence when in Edinburgh.  After that, we climbed up and over Carlton Hill to head back to our room to freshen up.   Met up with Pam & Bill for dinner at Mal Maison, after walking down to the harbour to see if we could catch a glimpse of the Royal Yacht.  Unfortunately, view is obstructed by a large building.  
Lovely to chat with P&B over relaxing dinner outdoor as the sun set.

Day 11 - July 17

Sadly, today was our day to officially leave the Highlands of Scotland and make our way to Edinburgh.  
We made a short stop at the Commando memorial enroute to our last hike in Scotland.  The circular “remembrance area” was very special … personal memorials old and new.  

After the memorial, we made our way to our day’s hike on Coire Ardair, Creag Meagaidh in a National Nature Reserve.   

Due to our timeline, we had to cut things short at Stage 3 (see link) but had already ascended ~ 700’ by this point.  We had a nice picnic overlooking the Glen and then headed back down the trail the way we had come.  



After our hike we treated ourselves to a coffee enroute to the Dalwhinnie Distillery. We went on a tour and learned all about how they make Scotch Whisky … and the various ways Dalwhinnie (and other distilleries) use malt, peat, water, process and aging to get it just the way they want it. Jenn sampled three scotches (15 year, a blend and 15+ special ed) while Glen took his samples home – designated driver. 😊  




Last stop ... Dunkeld village to take in Dunkeld cathedral. The village is said to date back to the 9th century, founded by the then King of the Picts.  

The cathedral was already closed by the time we got there, so we walked around the outside, taking in its magnificence. 

The area surrounding the Dunkeld and the Cathedral is also known as "Perthshire Big Tree Country" which inspired Shakespeare in his time. Only one tree remains from this time - amazing.

 


Onward to Edinburgh along the A-road and later Motorway.  We crossed the old Fourth Road bridge (suspension, think Golden Gate Bridge) next to the impressive Queensferry Crossing bridge currently under construction.

We found our B&B relatively easy and then dropped off the rental car.  A short walk back and took in some pub food for dinner.  

KM Hiked 12